Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Cult wine

I read on the site of the Grand Jury Européen, an article about « cult wines »

Cult wine – icon.... so much possibilities and so few unanimity… For everyone or myself?
Price, rarity, emotion, the privilege to know the son of the cousin of the father-in-law of the cellar master?
To be the only one having drank it?
The one that’s been shared?
That of a happy memory, love, sad, melancholy?
That is reserved for rich people?
That’s reserved to those who know?
Anyone who has a dream in him?
Those who have not yet been drunk?

A cru or the vintage of a cru ? For me, cult is often the vintage of a cru.
Some examples :
Beau Séjour Duffau Lagarosse is not a cult wine, but for Murielle, myself and the harvesters who could have bought it for peanuts in 93-94, the 1990 vintage was probably a cult wine.
Ausone 1849 so rare and 1964 which I drank by the case with pleasure.
This bottle of Pétrus 1955 – The cause of everything 1950 drank for a friend’s birthday and the last 1962, and… and ….. (the cru is cult for me)
This La Tache 1990 drank in Panafiel with Peter Sisseck
Pingus 1995 and all the others, I am such a fan of wine and its creator (for me, the vintage is cult)
Mouton Rothschild 1945 in magnum, drank with Jean Philippe, Christophe, Denis, René and the others in meals hosted by Hardy Rodenstock.
Cheval Blanc 1947 drank, all different and 1990, I must have drank more than a barrel.
The first bottle of Petite Sibérie, for what it represents of ambition, courage against anyone who doesn’t want to dream.
Those 1928 and 1929 drank with Jaques Luxey, I’ve forgotten most of the names but were also cult by the memory- a bit vague – from this time.
Harlan, Sine Qua Non and all those who make you dream – I am a good audience.
Cult wine perhaps also as it is presented to me as contrarian, Rayas which I have never been able to like, even after a dozen bottles, still waiting for an emotion.
Other examples for, against. Is all this serious, next to the first wine produced by any wine grower, the first wine made by him in his cellar, so important, so vital to his life. I think of all these first wines that I have seen born here and there: Gracia, Croix de Labrie, Villhardy, those of Jean-Roger Calvet and Mary - all of these first wines which, although not perfect, are cult in their eyes and mine.
As can be cult the fries and beef rib from L’Ami Louis, the coconut cake from Belle-Maman (mother-in-law), the Pata Negra frokm Patrick Lelièvre, the cognac from Mr Halley, Mumu’s cooking, the first cherries from Ceret ...

Everything, everything can be cult in our heart, as long as it is alive, and that we have the time to listen.

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